Bodegas Benito Urbina, Gran Reserva Rioja Especial 2004, Spain

Bodegas Urbina is run by Pedro (Senior) and his two sons Pedro and Angel Benito Urbino. Their 75 hectares of vineyards, mostly planted with Tempranillo, have been carefully nurtured by the family for four generations and they use organic fertilisers, indigenous yeasts and avoid the use of weedkillers and pesticides. The vines are grown mainly in the bush form and yields are kept low. The grapes for this wine come from 30+ year old vines and are hand-harvested and selected. It has spent 24 months in American and French oak barrels before 48 months in bottle in the Bodega.

Everything about this bodega centres around ageing. After picking, the grapes are fermented slowly in stainless steel, then aged extensively in a mixture of American (75%) and French (25%) barrels. After ageing in oak, the wines are held in tank which retains a lift and freshness in the wines (rarely seen for this traditional style of Rioja). Pedro Benito Urbina makes a range of wines, mostly red, right across the quality spectrum from crianza to gran reserva. He releases his wines when they are ready to drink and fully mature. They represent the essence of classic Rioja: stylistically they rest their quality on finesse, complexity and savoury flavours, rather than power.

A fantastic example of mature Rioja from the vintage 2004. Definitely decant and expect complex aromas of soft leather, sweet spice and red fruit, a whiff of mushroom and dried tea leaf and a balsamic note with beautifully integrated fruit and oak on the palate, fresh acidity and a silky texture.